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POSTED: 15 Jul 2023

Top Skincare Tips for Skin of Colour from a Skin Doctor

Individuals with darker skin tones often face a unique set of skin challenges. These include hyperpigmentation, keloid scars and higher to certain like peels and lasers. Sadly, most schools and training programmes do not cover skin of colour . to , just 22% of any formal in skin of colour. Fewer than half felt properly able to treat people of colour, who . There is a wealth of misconceptions around skin of colour, so we are here to dispel them. In this article, we the unique needs and best skincare for skin of colour.

Skin Problems Unique to Skin of Colour

Skin of colour is a term that covers a wide range of skin tones. speaking, it refers to non-white skin. People of African, Asian, Latin, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern tend to have higher melanin levels. Most have skin types 4 to 6 on the . skin offers some sun damage. This means it is less prone to . In fact, people with skin of colour often than counterparts. That said, there are also concerns that skin of colour is at greater risk of. These include , , and .

Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Colour

is one of the most common issues affecting skin of colour. It is where the skin makes excess melanin in isolated areas. This leads to that can linger for months or even years. Darker skin tones have larger melanocytes, which produce and hold more . This is why skin of colour is more prone to .

A variety of triggers can increase production. These often include excessive sun exposure, inflammation or injury, and hormonal fluctuations. Skin of colour has better protection, but it is still to sun damage. Excess sun pushes the skin to produce more melanin to protect against UV rays, which shows up as hyperpigmentation. Skin of colour is less prone to this than lighter skin tones, though it is not immune. It can also develop hyperpigmentation from hormonal changes, known as melasma. Hereditary is more common too. This normally appears as patches of darker skin around the , neck, chin and .

Skin of colour is also far more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation than lighter skin. This is where dark after trauma, including , burns or even . The trauma causes inflammation that the (the pigment-producing cells). Melanin then leaks out and deposits into the skin where the melanocyte sits. This is why you get isolated patches of dark skin at the site of the injury.

It is to completely avoid hyperpigmentation in skin of colour. You can, however, reduce the risk. Easy wins include using sun protection, skin conditions like acne and eczema, and injury to your skin. There are also a number of treatments that can help fade hyperpigmentation, which we below.

Keloids & Hypertrophic Scars

People with skin of colour are also more prone to and hypertrophic scars. are tough, raised scars that expand beyond the wound’s . scars are also raised, but they stay within the wound’s . Both result from an . The body makes too much collagen to repair a wound or inflammation site, which leads to raised, thickened skin.

The risk of these scars is significantly higher in skin of colour. Raised melanin content does not only influence the skin’s colour. It also plays a role in the skin’s inflammatory and healing . This hyperactivity can tip the scales of healing, leading to an of collagen and these abnormal scars.

and hypertrophic scars can follow any skin injury, including cuts, piercings, burns, acne or even minor . can also continue to grow for years and often recur even after surgical . They can be itchy, tender or even . They can also carry a real emotional and psychological burden, affecting quality of life and . As such, it is important to be of these risks and seek help early if you notice any unusual scars. It also helps to reduce skin trauma and manage inflammation, so these scars are less likely to form in the first place.

Flesh Moles

Also known as dermal melanocytic naevi, flesh moles can occur in all skin types. However, they tend to be more common and in skin of colour. This is largely down to the contrast between the colour of the mole and the surrounding skin. Flesh moles are usually benign and pose no health risk. That said, any change in the size, shape or colour of a mole should be checked by a . Ideally they should be experienced in skin of colour, as these changes can be signs of skin cancer.

Early Skin Cancer is Often Missed

Skin of colour has more melanin, the that gives skin, hair and eyes their colour. This provides some natural protection against UV radiation, but not complete . So although skin cancer is less common in darker skin, it can be more deadly. This is because it is often at a later stage. Part of the problem is a lack of education, for the public and for doctors, on how skin cancer looks in skin of colour.

Therefore, if you have skin of colour and notice a new mole or skin changes, it is vital to see a dermatologist in treating people of colour. This matters even more if mole removal is needed, so they can reduce the risk of keloid scars.

Vitiligo

is an autoimmune condition that leads to the loss of skin pigment in patches. It can affect all skin tones. However, it is often more noticeable in skin of colour, due to the contrast between pigmented and depigmented skin.

In skin of colour, vitiligo can also be more emotionally distressing. The contrast is more pronounced, and there can be stigma around changes in skin colour. Many people experience significant psychosocial fallout, and depression.

In terms of treatment, the goal is to stop or slow the loss of . include immune suppressants, topical corticosteroids, inhibitors and light . In some cases, (micropigmentation) or may be an option. It is also crucial to protect the skin from the sun, as depigmented areas burn easily. Crucially, people with skin of colour and should seek a dermatologist experienced in treating this in skin types.

Ashiness

Dry skin, or xerosis, is usually more in skin of colour. This is because dry, flaky skin shows up more against a darker tone. occurs when the skin’s surface becomes and loses water. The result is a dull, rough and often or "ashy" appearance. It is caused by various factors. These include harsh soaps, too much sun, cold and dry weather, and certain or medications. Research also suggests that some skin of colour may be more prone to water loss, which causes .

The best way to combat is . Avoid the that dry out the skin, and use a hydrating routine. This includes gentle, cleansers, exfoliation to remove dead skin cells, and .

Pseudofolliculitis Barbae

barbae, also known as , affects people with skin of colour. It is especially common in those with thick, curly hair. It happens when shaved, plucked or waxed hair grows back into the skin. This causes and bumps. Over time, the inflammation can also lead to hyperpigmentation.

The structure of the hair is the reason it is more common in skin of colour. Curly or coiled hair, when cut close to the surface, can curl back and pierce the skin. The body sees this as a foreign object and mounts an inflammatory . This gives rise to clogged pores and bumps. It also promotes production, which causes dark spots or patches.

barbae on and . Helpful include close shaves, using single-blade razors or electric clippers, in the direction of hair growth, and using a soothing aftershave. like and can help exfoliate the skin and free up ingrown hairs. agents may then help fade any associated hyperpigmentation.

Problematic Skin Products & Treatments for Skin of Colour

When it comes to skincare, not all treatments are equally safe or beneficial for skin of colour. What works well on skin can wreak havoc on darker skin. Certain active ingredients can be irritating and cause problems. One key culprit is high-concentration , which can the skin and cause PIH. The same can happen with , and even the . exfoliants are also a concern, as they can cause that lead to and PIH. Harsh soaps, alcohol and can be drying and irritating, which causes ashiness and even PIH. Skin of colour therefore needs a of effective yet gentle skincare. Always patch test new and start with lower . Even better, seek the advice of a skincare experienced in treating skin of colour.

can be very effective for hair removal, skin ageing, scars, texture and hyperpigmentation. However, they must be used with on skin of colour. The laser’s energy is by dark . This means darker skin can absorb too much of that energy, which risks burns, PIH and even scars. Certain carry a similar risk, particularly aggressive ones like and TCA peels. Used incorrectly, they can cause PIH or even hypopigmentation in darker skin. None of these are off limits though. It is just to see a who in skin of colour. They will be able to choose the safest, most effective for you.

Best Skincare for Skin of Colour

The best skincare for skin of colour addresses your without irritation or pigment. There are plenty of that work well and are safe to use. Below we go through the key ingredients to protect, treat and enhance your skin.

Professional Treatments for Skin of Colour

can be used safely in skin of colour. Start with low and build up gradually as your skin tolerates them, and always patch test first. Among professional treatments, like , and are generally safe in skin of colour. The same is true for and , which can boost skin quality and . If you are prone to hypertrophic scars or keloids, exercise . It is worth a consultation with a who specialises in skin of colour first.

peels and lasers can be highly useful for acne, scars, ageing and . However, they only work safely if done with care and . To avoid burns, scars and PIH, see a practitioner in treating skin of colour.

Best Skincare Routine for Skin of Colour

There is a whole world of that work well for skin of colour. The best depends on your concerns, goals and lifestyle. The core steps are:

For acne, hyperpigmentation and scarring, useful additions include:

Caring for skin of colour means its unique and susceptibilities. It helps to know which treatments are problematic and to adopt a for your . For and treatments, always choose a doctor with experience in Skin Products of colour. For keloids, skin changes and moles, see a dermatologist with that . They will be more likely to diagnose you and manage you .

We are about personalised skincare, which is why we set up our virtual skin clinic. Our are in delivering safe and effective treatments for skin of colour. We provide prescription skincare with like , and to treat , , and where appropriate. Everything is personalised to your needs. . The journey to great skin starts here.

This is intended for general only and is not a for advice, or treatment. Always consult a qualified medical professional with any about your skin or treatment options.

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